A Modern Bali Tale #1 – Ka and the Demon

Bali villas for rent are available all over the island. Originally they were mainly clustered in the south of the island but in recent years, as demand increases, there are Bali villas for rent everywhere. They offer a more luxurious experience of Bali which can be enhanced by talking to local people about their daily lives. One such conversation, many years ago, reveals another side of Bali which one needs to dig to expose.

The conversation was with a village elder, ‘Ka’, who was widely known in the area as a ‘magic man’. He said his age was ‘over a hundred’ and he looked every year of this; his smiling eyes looking out from a leathery face with a huge dreadlock piled up on top of his head. He lived in a little house made predominantly from mud and sticks and although this sounds awful, it was actually very comfortable. His story was told to me via an interpreter as the only language Ka spoke was Old Balinese.

One night, he revealed, he had gone to bed as usual shortly after dark, around 7pm, settling down for a good 8 hours of shut eye. It was not long after he had fallen asleep when he was called out of his home by a wild, angry demon who summoned him as he knew Ka was the magical protector of the village. To enter the dreams of other villagers, the demon would first have to defeat Ka, so he challenged him to a fight.

The conflict was fierce and raged far and wide through the local rainforest. Both opponents flew at immense speeds up and down the valleys; magical fire-balls were thrown and thunderbolts tore the air. Ka’s sleep was very restless and his dream made him cry out in the darkness and woke his wife. The battle raged on, sometimes hand to hand, the combatants were locked in a titanic struggle for supremacy. Finally, Ka gathered all his strength and the strength of his ancestors and flung the demon with incredible force at a huge mango tree. The demon slammed into a branch which snapped with an ear-splitting crack and he fell dead to the ground.

Ka awoke in a cold sweat, jumped out of bed and went to sit on the hillside and smoke a cigarette. Dawn was just breaking and there was no way he could return to sleep. At full light, he made his way into the village and gathered a crowd of young and old men to him and animatedly told his story. The older men nodded appreciatively but the younger ones dismissed it as a bad dream. But the elders wanted to demonstrate the truth of the magical world to their youngsters so an expedition was organized.

It took most of the day for Ka to lead them through the forest and he showed them where he had pursued the demon past Bali villas for rent, down the long valley and back up the next. Much of the path was through dense jungle and the going was tough. Finally, in a part of the forest which had obviously not been visited for a long time, Ka excitedly shouted, ‘Over there, over there’, and pointed to a huge, ancient mango tree. On arriving at the base of its trunk, the old men were satisfied to see that very recently a huge branch had been torn from the trunk and was lying fresh on the ground, the leaves barely wilted. The old men saw this as proof of the reality of Ka’s dream and the young men could only wonder that it had been proven to be real!

Ka died a few years ago but just over the wall of many Bali villas for rent there are many Ka’s with many stories just as interesting and just as mind boggling, for there are many sides to Bali and some are beyond explanation!

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Cooling Computers in Bali

Many people travel with computers and it is an essential item for many people to bring with them on holiday. Digital photographs need to be copied from cameras and then sent to friends on Facebook with the inevitable caption, ‘Look at our fabulous Bali villa’. Getting connected is fairly easy and most villas in Bali will come complete with Wi-Fi access as standard. Even if they don’t, it only costs a few tens of dollars to get a USB 3G dongle and be online very quickly. Most computer shops in Bali will be able to supply the dongle and the expertise to set it up. These internet solutions are not as cheap to use as they would be in your own country but they are not outrageous and judicious use of the connection means the cost will not be an issue.

One major issue for computer users in Bali, especially for those who have machines which have been in use for some time, is overheating. Older machines often suffer more seriously from overheating because they are more likely to have their CPU cooling systems clogged with dust and fluff. The first sign that there might be a problem could be the computer running incredibly slow before switching itself off. Virtually all portable computers cool themselves by blowing cool air across a heat-sink which conducts the heat away from the CPU (the computer’s brain) and other high temperature components. In a temperate country, this is a very efficient cooling method, as the difference between the ambient temperature and the safe working temperature of the CPU is likely to be at least 30 degrees Celsius (86 degrees Fahrenheit). In your Bali villa, with an average environmental temperature of around 30 degrees Celsius, this difference is severely eroded. That means that the amount of cooling available is considerably less. Any blockage of the cooling system can lead to the computer shutting down and, in the worst case, damage to critical (read expensive to fix) components.

So what to do? First is to make sure the coolant path is clear – i.e. there is not an obvious build up of fluff in the fan vents and they are not obscured by objects next to them. Second is always use your laptop on a hard surface – a desk or table or such, and never on a bed or a sofa cushion etc. These can obscure the vents and lead to damage.  If you can, use your machine in an air-conditioned environment and keep the machine as much as possible out of direct sunlight. Finally, a recent cooling solution is the ‘cooling pad’. This is a sloping plastic box with two, three or four fans under the top which blow a large volume of air onto the underside of your computer. These are available in most computer shops for under twenty dollars and get their power from any USB port. Villas in Bali often have a desktop computer for guest use and these are often filled with noisy fans. If in doubt, follow the code above and chatting to friends back home will be a pain-free experience for you and your computer!

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The Typical Bali Villa Rental

Bali villas for rent are a relatively new phenomenon, having only really come to the fore in the past decade and a half. They were born from the expatriate community renting their own houses whilst on holiday, often for extended sojourns back to their home countries. Many people came to Bali in the 80’s and 90’s and found success in the export business, mainly in clothing, jewellery and handicrafts and latterly in furniture. They made new lives in Bali, building wonderful homes which they adapted and extended until many of them were veritable palaces. Many of the people who rented these homes were friends, or friends of friends, and with the help of villa rental companies such as Indovillas, this soon grew into a lucrative business.

With the growth in the tourism sector, people started purpose-building Bali villas for rent. These are generally constructed in neo-tropical style; large open spaces and multiple bedrooms usually with en-suite bathrooms. There is usually a large lounge area with several different seating areas to suit different activities and, these days, a home theatre space with large flat screen TV and a DVD library. Some villas have a library of movies and TV shows on computer which can be played on the main TV or in the bedrooms. Often the kitchen and dining room are in a separate pavilion and are very well equipped. Many villas employ a full or part time cook, trained to satisfy an eclectic range of tastes. It is well worth spending time finding out the capacities of your cook, which will probably range from home-style Indonesian, through Chinese and Indian to Italian and ‘Fast Food’.

Almost all Bali villas will have a very decent swimming pool, often with an adjoining Jacuzzi and almost all with some kind of roofed relaxation platform, commonly known as a Bali Balé. This is a wonderful place to spend much of your vacation and is likely to become a focal point, with drinks and snacks served at all hours of the day and night!

The Bali villa holiday has rapidly become the main choice of the well-informed holidaymaker as it provides a more exclusive holiday experience than the often impersonal hotel room – and even better, with a small group of family or friends, the Bali villa holiday can also be a darn sight cheaper!

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Bali Spa Review – #1 Mandara Spa at The Padma Hotel

During their stay in a Bali villa, most people will want to take a spa treatment. This is the first of a series of reviews of the great range of superb treatments available within minutes of your Bali villa rental which will become one of the enduring memories of your vacation.

Mandara Spa at The Padma in Legian is a delightful venue for an exceptional spa experience. The Mandara group began in Bali over a decade and a half ago and their first spa was in the Bali villa complex of The Chedi in the mountains above Ubud in the centre of the island. Today they have branches from Hollywood to Bollywood and almost all places in between, and when you experience the quality of treatments at the Mandara at The Padma it is very easy to understand their popularity.

The spa lobby is a tranquil oasis, all curving lines, low-lit and calm and the smiling staff at the reception desk in front of you, are very welcoming. You are presented with a cold ginger tea and a towel is close to freezing. After choosing the desired treatment, you are ushered into one of their 8 single or 2 double spa suites and change into a sarong. The reviewer’s choice of treatment was a Warm Stone massage with a Steam Shower and to start, a soothing Aromatherapy Foot Bath and Skin Rub.

The Foot Rub was very pleasant, gently conducted and invigorating with the addition of sea salt and essential oils. The fifteen minute Steam Shower was a whole body cleanse in a purpose-built steam room which left one feeling open and expectant. So far, so good, all very well presented and nothing unexpected; and then to the Warm Stone Massage. The treatment begins with a gentle oil massage and then, a rub with hot, flat stones which gives a greater depth whilst still remaining soft. After each part of the body is massaged the stones are placed under the relevant pressure points, still radiating their healing warmth. The whole body, first the back, then the front, is massaged in this way and the effect is sublime. This is a massage to induce a near coma state of relaxation. It is deeply transcendental; and leaves one desperately wanting another and another; not because they are not satisfying, but because they most eminently are.

My therapist was Eka and she has been working at various Mandara spa’s for fourteen years. She is also a trainer and all the therapists are trained in Bali before beginning work in spas in other parts of the world. Back at my Bali villa rental I am still floating in a cloud of sweet oil aromas and open-pored smooth skin which feels strangely new and fits better around my body. Without hesitation I would give Mandara Spa 10 out of 10 for a supreme experience in a delightful setting. Thank you Mandara Spa!

Name of Spa Padma Spa by Mandara
‘Tagline’ of Spa (if any)
Name of Spa Manager Ni Luh Gede Sinar Kumalasari (Kumala)
Address Padma Resort Bali at Legian

Jalan Padma, no. 1

Kuta, Bali

Opening Hours 9.00am to 9.00pm
Off Street Parking? Yes
Google Map Reference or GPS Location (if possible)
Phone +62 361 767162
Email indonesia@mandaraspa.com
Website www.mandaraspa.com
Signature Treatment(s) Mandara Massage (four hand massage) or Spa Sampler (Balinese Massage + refresher facial or Foot massage)
Typical Customer Spend $60 (including retail)
Price for Basic 1hr Massage $46 (balinese massage – 50mins) ++ price
Spa Cafe / Restaurant? No
Number of  Employees 30
Home Visits Possible? No
Salon Treatments Available? Only manicure/pedicure
Ayurvedic Therapies Shiro Dhara
Other Therapies Offered Manicure/pedicure, Pevonia Botanica facials, Royal Thai Massage, Warm Stone Massage, packages
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Bali FAQ #1

Q: Where is Bali?

A: Bali is Eight degrees south of The Equator in a straight line between India and Australia, between The Indian Ocean and The Pacific.

Q: Is Bali a country?

A: Bali is part of the country of Indonesia; it is part of the long chain of islands approximately 5,500km (3,400 miles) from North Sumatra in the west to Papua in the east. This is equivalent to the distance between Anchorage, Alaska and Durango, Mexico. It is a vast country with a huge population spread thickly in some regions and very sparsely in others.

Q: I have heard Bali is on the Ring of Fire. Does this mean I will see volcanoes?

A: Yes, all the mountains in Bali are volcanic but are mostly extinct and you are unlikely to be disturbed by an eruption whilst sitting by the pool in your Bali villa rental. If you are lucky, when you journey north, you might be able to see some smoke or maybe a few small rocks being thrown out of the top of Mt. Batur in the middle of the huge crater of Kintamani, 50km (30 miles) from Seminyak.

Q: So will there be earthquakes?

A: It is possible that you might feel the occasional small tremor but many people do not notice them. It has been many decades since there was a serious seismic event in Bali. Bali villas for rent are built to modern building codes and are regarded as safe.

Q: When is the rainy season?

A: The rainy season is generally between late November and early April although it can vary depending on other factors such as La Niña which shifted the weather patterns for a few years in the mid naughties.

Q: What benefits do Bali villas for rent offer over a hotel vacation?

A: A Bali villa rental is like having your own personal hotel. Most are staffed by fully trained personnel who will learn the likes and dislikes of your party and strive to ensure you have the best time possible. With the vast array of quality delivery outlets and suppliers of fine provisions, there is nothing available to the hotels which is not available in your private Bali villa. A very luxurious Bali villa can be had for a modest price, especially so when the expense is split between several people in a group party, which can then make it a very competitive choice.

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Where to Eat Pizza in Southern Bali

Pizzas come in all shapes and sizes; some are astonishing combinations of ripe ingredients in a rich sauce and sitting on a superb crispy base; others are miserable, disappointing affairs which have more in common with a wet biscuit than the fine creation of the magnificence of Italian tradition. There are broadly three kinds of pizza; the Italian with a thin, crispy base and the American with a slightly softer, thicker base and the Balinese which is more like a wet, open vegetable sandwich.

There are two major choices for pizza delivery to your Bali villas for rent in South Bali, The Pizza Club and Trattoria, the first for a Domino’s-like experience and the second for a more traditional ultra thin-crust Italian pizza we wished our mothers were able to make! Both arrive at your villa rental Bali in piping hot condition due to proper foil delivery bags and staff who can find your villa with ease. Both outlets offer an eat-in service as well; The Pizza Club is a well lit diner, whereas Trattoria is far more laid back and serves a wide selection of dishes. Both pizzas are excellent and it’s a matter of personal taste as to which you prefer – and it’s not a bad idea to alternate!

Rustica, on Jl. Batu Belig is also very good. They serve a semi-traditional Italian pizza with a wide range of toppings. The owner, a jolly Italiana Mama runs a wonderful kitchen and pasta is fine too. Papa’s on Jl. Pantai Kuta (on the beach road in Kuta) serve a superb pizza which might be the best, and probably the most authentic in Bali. Large and unevenly crusted, these are a pizza lover’s delight. Also excellent are the pizzas from Massimo’s in Sanur which are full of flavour and cooked by an Italian with an obsession for recreating the tastes of home.

Several Balinese-run places do a fairly good impression of a pizza which is tasty and cheap. The pizza at Kayu Putih restaurant in Batu Belig is not bad and those from The Nusa Dua Beach Grill on the east coast are perfect to eat on the beach.

A vacation based around Bali villas for rent is made all the better by ordering delivery pizza after a hard day lying by the pool, when one does not desire to step outside the front door. Most delivery companies can find the typical villa rental Bali  and staff keep a list of the most popular – especially the ones in which their menu is prominently displayed!

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Balinese Cuisine

During your Bali villa holiday, remember to indulge yourself amongst the great range of Balinese foods.  The most popular dish in Bali is Babi Guling (roast suckling pig). Easy to find, Babi Guling is the menu highlight for Balinese on all occasions; ceremonies, wedding parties, gatherings; and for daily meals. Young pigs are used for Babi Guling because they are tender and many of the Balinese can spit roast them to perfection. The process begins with cleaning the inside of the pig and stuffing with cassava leave and spices. The belly is sewn with string or held by thin satay skewers and the outer skin is rubbed with turmeric juice. The pig is slowly roasted over a charcoal or wooden fire until the skin is crispy and authentic aromas arise. When you order Babi Guling, you will be served a couple of slices of meat, some fat, skin, intestines, and other ‘parts’ and is served with steamed rice  and lawar.

Lawar is a traditional Balinese salad, traditionally a ceremonial offering, which can be found at various restaurants, local markets and eaten in your Bali villa. There are two kinds of lawar; Red Lawar and White Lawar. Red Lawar contains fresh pig’s blood, meat, cassava leaves, jackfruit, green bean, grated coconut and spices. White Lawar doesn’t contain fresh blood. Lawar can also be made with other meats such as chicken, duck, beef, and turtle. Some villages in Bali have Moslem communities and they serve lawar without pork to celebrate Idul Fitri and other occations. Halal Lawar can be made of chicken or beef with jackfruit, green beans and grated coconut and spices. You can ask for spicy hot, medium or mild taste. Vegetarian lawar is also available with authentic flavours.

Ayam or Bebek Betutu is another famous Balinese dish – chicken or duck stuffed with cassava leaves and spices, wrapped with banana leaves and roasted in a coconut husk fire for 6 to 7 hours and popular in Bali villas for rent

Sate Lilit is another favourite traditional Balinese food. It is made from either pork, beef, chicken, turtle or seafood. Most Sate Lilit is made from fish, spices and moist grated coconut combined and moulded around trimmed stalks of lemon grass or wooden skewers and grilled over coconut husks to give it a delicate flavour and is a favourite in Bali villas for rent

Sayur Urap Bali is a combination of steamed vegetables and a salad of long beans, been sprouts or other green vegetables, mixed with spices cooked with coconut milk and tasty grated coconut.

Jukut Ares is another vegetable dish made from the tender centre of young banana palms and served with ribs and meat (beef, pork, duck or chicken) and spicy condiments such as Sambal Matah which is made from fresh chilli, shallots, lemongrass, coconut oil, salt and shrimp paste. All the ingredients are raw and combined together and sprinkled with lemon juice to enhance the flavour. Almost every Balinese meal is served with Sambal Matah without which it is not considered complete.

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Watching the Sea Weed Farmers

Bali’s southerly eastern coast, south of Nusa Dua, is host to a fascinating and visually stunning agriculture – kelp farms very close to the shore and exposed at low tide.  Several extremely high quality Bali villas for rent have been built on the cliffs here which overlook the kelp farms and provide hours of endless gentle amusement.

One such location is just off the beach at the Nusa Dua Beach Grill. Here one can order a mouth watering selection of western and Indonesian foods including pizza and fries, Nasi Goreng and Snapper, ice cold beer, coca-cola and fruit juices and have them delivered directly to a sun lounger directly in front of the ocean. Sun loungers populated with the gently glowing, barely clad, who delight in doing virtually nothing. The sun loungers afford superb views of Nusa Lembongan and the shimmering ocean. Plenty of guests from the local Bali villa rental scene flock here all the days of the week but Sundays are particularly popular with families and children frolic in the safety of waters bounded a kilometre or so away by a reef, popular in the season with surfers.

The kelp beds are fascinating. In long strips, marked out by dividing channels and small ropes, they are tended by locals clad in a splendid variety of random costumes, some in heavy metal T-shirts, some in aged batik blouses, some in wellington boots, some in obviously mis-matched flip-flops. They stride into the shallow water pulling small boats made from polystyrene blocks with their small tools piled on top. From the comfort of your Bali villa rental you can watch them perform small fiddly processes with an almost secret intensity.

The Kelp is a vivid and vibrant green, it glows in heaps when it is struck by the incident sunlight, it is evocative of emerald trees made from real emeralds jelly sweets made from ‘Finest Green’ as Blackadder’s Baldric might have said. The Kelp has a mystic quality both in the swaying weed beds and during its primitive transportation to shore.

Some of the most amazing Bali villas for rent overlook the kelp beds further down the coast. Asmara Villas seem to be something out of James Bond with an underground car park hewn from solid rock and architecture and appointments which are second to none on the island. There are several villas which lie parallel to the shore and are set at sufficient intervals up the cliffs as to afford total privacy from one another. Asmara villas are a delight. Rest in crystal clear infinity pools, so named as the eastern ocean of the Lombok basin is almost indistinguishable from the surface of the swimming pool and under the right conditions melts into the sky. Needless to say all facilities are perfect, from beds to hi-fi and the superb chefs which are available 24/7. The kelp beds here stretch out a hundred metres from the shore and are a total delight set against white sand which creates an azure ocean.

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Ubud Restaurants #2

The sleepy town of Ubud is more noisy than it used to be but still retains the charm of its mountain hideaway roots. Home to art galleries and upmarket shops and many Bali villas for rent, it is also a haven for those who enjoy superb food.

Perhaps the most famous restaurant in Ubud is the world-renown Mozaic , the creation of French / American native, Chris Salans. This is the restaurant which others aspire to emulate and the other world-class chefs in Bali unanimously name him as the island’s top chef. Mozaic, exceeds expectations. The New Yorker Magazine said it was the ‘Best Deal On The Planet’ and it’s true; for the price of a starter in New York you’ll dine here till replete.

After a few mouthfuls of food, one begins to enter an altered state. The body falls instantly in love and beseeches the mind to eat no other food but that prepared by Chris Salans. Dishes are inspired by the day’s ingredients and the menu is printed daily. Moulard Duck Fois Gras Ravioli, Boneless Victoria Quail or Rabbit Moroccan Pastilla and a spectacular vegetarian selection conspire to entrap the senses in ecstasy. Dining at Mozaic makes one laugh – celebrate the joy of eating!

Another great restaurant close by your Ubud Bali villa, is TeraZo, from husband and wife team, New Yorker Karen Waddell and Balinese Gusky. Serving a blend of Pan-Asian and International cuisines this is a very popular, slightly more expensive, restaurant with walls lined with original hand drawn illustrations of Indonesian fauna from the colonial Dutch period. Open air ambiance combines with exquisite food and a tremendous wine selection. Try the Garlic Prawn Tartlette to start and follow with Australian Tenderloin in Cabernet Jus or the Lamb Shank with Moroccon Spices over Couscous.

A little further out of town is the Como Shambhala Estate – formerly the Begawan Giri Estate. This is one of the most astonishing properties in Bali. Centred around a superb spa, with a philosophy of wellbeing, acres of terraced gardens hiding high-end villas and individual apartments, sculpted lawns and patches of exquisite and tamed jungle make this an astonishing domain. The suitably upmarket ‘Glow Restaurant’ was established as one of Bali’s premiere eateries by Master Chef David King who taught his staff to create a range of healthy eating New World cuisine accented with Indonesian  highlights which supports their healthy outlook. The open kitchen is fronted by a layered glass bar from Japanese master glass artist, Seiki and enables guests to watch their meals being prepared. Recommendations include the sublime lime leaf, chilli and coconut curry of fern tips and cherry tomatoes and seared mahi-mahi with, baby zucchini, chickpea and mint salad with preserved lemon and sumac dressing.The master dwellings are amongst the best of the many Bali villas for rent.

If you stay in a Bali villa in Ubud and environs, all these restaurants are but a short distance away and provide a glimpse of the ‘High Life’. For the price of an average meal in a western country you can eat the food of the gods on their favourite island.

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